Santiago day 2

We met another couple in the breakfast room this morning, Gordon and Sandy from Ladysmith! They were doing the Camino by auto and were most I tested in my experience. I should say, it is a question everyone asks of everyone else....are you "doing" the Camino ? Of course we say by train and Jeff tells them that I have done it and they should read my blog if they want a good overview. (Blush!) I write the blog for family and friends to keep track of me and to enjoy reading again myself as I forget the details.
The weather today is cool and overcast and as we head to the cathedral, the time is just after 11 am.....12 o'clock noon is the pilgrim mass and it is always packed so to get a seat you must arrive early.  The cathedral is under some sort of maintenance/cleaning so the front was not a pretty site with scaffolding and blue tarps everywhere. We were directed around the side to another entrance and    Inside the space does not disappoint. The pews were already full and people were finding places on the floor and along the walls. We were fortunate to find a seat near the front on a side wall, so not the best view but still a view.
The mass started and being a Catholic cathedral was conducted mostly in Latin. The tiny nun that I remembered from previous visits was just as memorable, her voice was powerful and sweet. She sang several hymns including the hallelujah chorus which the congregation joined in. Within the area that is reserved for the priests and nuns there is also seating for a number of pilgrims. These pilgrims would have been randomly chosen that day as they reached Santiago and visited the Compestella Office to receive their official compestella, which is only awarded to pilgrims who have walked the last 100 km into Santiago.  They represent all the pilgrims that have reached the cathedral today.  One of them that speaks Spanish is selected to do a reading. One of the priests also reads out the names of the countries today's pilgrims originated from. It is a very moving ceremony. For the final event of the mass the butefumerio (sp ?) is lowered from the Center of the cathedral, a tray of hot coals with incense is placed inside and the butefumerio is set swinging in an arc through the cathedral until it reaches 180 degrees, spilling smoke and the occasional ember down on the people/pilgrims. The swinging slows until the container is once again stopped by an attendant who grabs it and is swung around with the force and weight of it. A sight to behold.  Communion is offered to all who would like to receive it and then in both English and Spanish we are asked to greet our neighbour in friendship and peace with handshakes.
We left the cathedral and wandered around the narrow streets of the old town. We came across the market just as it was ending and we walked through the fresh fish area where they were hosing down and reapacking in ice what didn't sell, there was one fish the fishmonger told us was Grapa that must have weighed hundreds of pounds , even he couldn't lift it us to show us. ....soon it would be two o'clock and the shops and most restaurants would be shutting till four.  We were needing a beer and a bit of food and ventured into a middle eastern cafe for a falafel ......where we made the acquaintance of two ladies from Puerto Rico........they had also visited and loved Vancouver.  We popped back into the cathedral which was now not so busy and joined the short line to hug St James statue from behind and say a prayer, then down to the crypt which hold his remains.
More wandering around and we came across the cafe where the girls and I had hot chocolate and churros! ......and I knew then that Zara was just across the street. A visit netted a scarf for someone !
We then came back to our hotel for a respite and to ponder where to have dinner. .......we are thinking seafood and were given a recommendation by Diego in our hotel.